Camino de Santiago, Portomarin: Your Comprehensive Guide

When we entered Portomarin, we were first of all shocked by the stairs. After walking for 22 km from Sarria – especially after the incredibly hot last stretch in the burning sun without shadow – the last thing you want is to climb stairs.

Luckily our hotel wasn’t too far.

What to see

There are actually two Portomarins: the ancient village in the valley, now submerged in the river Miño which was built in the middle ages by a Roman bridge. It was once one of the richest towns of Galicia. When the Belesar reservoir was created in the 1960s, the most historic buildings were moved brick by brick and reconstructed higher up the mountain.

The remains of the old village, as well as the bridge, are still visible in summers when the dam is at a low level.

As mentioned, the first thing you see when reaching Portomarin is the staircase, which is settled on the arches of the old medieval bridge.

The most emblematic building of the town is the Romanesque temple-fortress Church of San Xoán, also known as San Nicholás. It was built in the 13th century by a student of Master Mateo, the architect of the cathedral of Santiago. Till the 19th century, the church was protected by the Order of St. John of Jerusalem. Later on, I got to know that it’s apparently even possible to go on top where you have an amazing view. But on that day, I would’ve anyways not been able to climb any stairs – again ?

Most of the historic buildings you find in the main square. In front of the church is the Pazo do Xeneral Paredes or Casa do Conde da Maza from the 16th century which is now the town hall.

To the south of the square is the Church of San Pedro with a portal from the 12th century, and next to it the Pazo da Marquesa de Bóveda and Limia from the 18th century.

There’s only one main shopping “mile” with supermarkets, boutiques and the obligatory tourist shops.

What to eat

Foodwise, it’s generally same as in the region around Lugo. In Portomarin it’s more about the local liquor!

• Orujo: A brandy which is obtained from grapes after fermentation. There is a herbal version of it as well, Orujo de Hierbas.

Try to come on an Easter Sunday during the Festa da Augardente, a very traditional gastronomical festival in Galicia, where you can see the whole production process.

• Eel (e.g. in Empanadas)
• Tarta de Portomarin: similar to the Tarta de Santiago with almonds but juicier and on a puff pastry base.

We decided to have dinner at O Mirador. It’s a bit on the higher side price-wise compared to other restaurants but still cheaper than a restaurant of the same standard in Germany.

Ambiance and view are great there and so was the food! I started with garlic prawns which were one of the best I’ve ever had!

I thought of ordering two raciones which I expected to be smaller plates, as I wasn’t very hungry. The portion size of the prawns was rather small as expected but when they brought the raxo de cerdo, I really thought that they’ve accidentally brought me a main course. It’s pork loin pieces on top of French fries. Absolutely delicious but just look at the size of this….

Mom once again had the ensalada mixta and some grilled vegetables. Both of them were very good too!

Where to stay

We stayed in the Hotel Ferramenteiro which is located directly at the Camino, one of the last houses when leaving Portomarin. It’s a hotel (upstairs) as well as a hostel (downstairs). The rooms are modern and clean and we even had our own balcony.