El Camino – Santiago de Compostela – What to See/Do

I fully fell in love with this city in no time. The beautiful architecture, amazing Galician food, the whole vibe of happy pilgrims from all over the world… It’s one of the cities I instantly felt connected to and felt like I don’t want to leave anymore.

There are some really good pages and blogs about what to do and see in Santiago with lots of details and history, one of them www.santiagoturismo.com. I’ll try to summarise it for you here to give you a bit of an overview. Make sure you do your research beforehand because there’s really a LOT to see! And do take out enough time to stay in Santiago. Around 3 days are definitely needed to really enjoy it without haste. There are so many things to see, do and most of all EAT, that it would be way too hectic otherwise.

There are lots of monuments, museums, parks and gardens, contemporary architecture, art galleries, exhibition halls and viewpoints that it would be way too much for me to go into detail. Check out the above mentioned page of Santiago Turismo for all the details.

Here the most important ones.

Catedral de Santiago

With what else to start than the cathedral? It’s how this city even started to be what it is today, this is what we all came for. It’s the burial place of Saint James and marks the end of the Camino. The sight of it is mind blowing from all sides as it has different facades. Especially the front view from Praza do Obradoiro, Santiago’s main square, is most impressive and also its most famous view. It covers an area of 10k square metres.

After Apostle James’ relics were discovered in 813, a first church was build in 834. The first settlers around this church were Benedictine monks who were in charge of looking after the relics. More and more worshipers came and a larger church had to be built soon after. Some of the best builders of the Romanesque era were involved in the construction but Maestro Mateo designed some of the most important parts. Especially the Pórtico da Gloria inside the west entrance needs to be mentioned here, a series of 200 sculptures unequaled in Europe. The present cathedral was constructed between 1075 and 1211 but lots of transformations inside were during the Baroque period like the magnificent gold altar. Hence, today it’s a mix between the original Romanesque structure and later Gothic and Baroque elements. More details about the history you find here.

The main attractions in the cathedral are the gilded statue of St James behind the altar. One has to climb the stairs and can embrace the statue from behind. One tip from my side: During one of the many masses which are held every day, it’s most empty there, especially while they are handing out the communion. Hardly anyone is up there during that time and one can look a bit behind the scenes. It’s quite an impressive view from there 🙂 After this, one should descent into the crypt where the St James’ relics are kept.

One should definitely attend some of the many masses a day, if possible as many as possible till you see the giant, 170-pound, called Botafumeir (Engl. “Smoke expeller”), swing after the communion. It’s incredible and the absolute highlight of the pilgrimage! It swings in a 65-meter arc between the two doorways, swung by eight man for 17 cycles, filling the air with the scent of incense, while a nun sings the Hymn to St James. I couldn’t help tearing up witnessing this, it’s just such an amazing moment.
It’s not after every service, only on set dates and otherwise only after special requests. It costs the cathedral around 450 € each time they swing it, so it only happens once enough contributions were made. We were lucky enough to see it 3 times in total in only 3 days, so it’s not that seldom after all.

One must do is a guided tour of the cathedral’s rooftop! You can/should combine it with a visit of the Museo da Catedral. Best check beforehand to book the rooftop tour since it’s very popular. We unfortunately missed out on it due to lack of research 🙁 (food was more important at that point of time 😉 ) In the museum you also find the Cathedral’s Gothic-Renaissance cloister which is one of the largest in Spain.

Plazas around the cathedral

Praza do Obradoiro

As mentioned, one gets the most famous view of the cathedral from this plaza. But the cathedral is not the only monument to see here. In fact, it is surrounded by four important buildings.

Directly opposite the cathedral is the Pazo de Raxoi, a neoclassical palace completed in 1766. It is the seat of the City Council, earlier the seat for the President of the Xunta of Galicia.

Looking at the cathedral, on your left is the Parador de Santiago or Hostal dos Reis Católicos. It was constructed in 1486 as religious work but now a 5-star hotel. It’s the oldest continuously operating hotel in the world. And not only this, its restaurant Libredon is regarded as one of the finest in Spain! In its history, it served as a hospice and hospital which provided the services free of charge for the pilgrims for a certain amount of days. The hotel now continues this tradition by offering food for the first ten pilgrims who arrive each day. It’s important to bring your compostela, the pilgrim’s certificate!

On your right is the Colexio de San Xerome (School of San Jerónimo), which houses the office of the University’s vice-chancellor. It was built in the 16th century.

In the middle of the plaza you find the kilometre zero, the point where all of the roads leading to the Apostle converge.

From the plaza one can take the city tour in the “Tourist Train”. It’s around half an hour in both Spanish and English (the guide says everything twice) and give you a crisp overview of the most important things you need to see. It doesn’t stop anywhere and the guide doesn’t go into much details, it’s really just a relatively short tour. We found it perfect to get a better idea of the city and to plan our daily routes.

Praza da Inmaculada

At this plaza you find the Monasterio de San Martiño Pinario which is not only the second largest religious institution in Santiago de Compostela but even the second largest monastery in Spain! It’s just opposite the North entrance to the Cathedral (da Acibecharia) at Praza da Inmaculada. It was founded already in the 12th century by Benedictine monks but the main developments were done in the 16th century. Together with the Cathedral, it’s the most valuable building of Galicia’s baroque style. Today it houses a seminary and museum. You can read more about it here.

The main facade together with the front gardens are oriented to the South, at the Praza da Inmaculada. The church facade is a bit around the corner at Praza de San Martiño. It’s got quite an impressive interior so don’t miss out to go inside!

Praza da Quintana

It’s quite a big plaza at the east facade of the Cathedral. The Cathedral has two gates here, the Porta Real and Porta Santa. The latter only opens in Jubilee Years (when 25th July, St James’s Day falls on a Sunday). You also get a good view on the Torre da Berenguela, the Clock tower. It’s at the corner of Praza da Quintana and Praza das Praterías. You get the best view over the Clock tower from Vía Sacra, the entrance to the street between Casa da Parra and the portico of the Church of San Paio de Antealtares.

Opposite the Cathedral is the Mosteiro de San Paio de Antealtares, a monastery and church. Founded in the 11th century, it was originally a monastery of Benedictine monks looking after the tomb of St James. It became a convent of Benedictine nuns in the 16th century. Construction wise, it’s mostly from the 17th and 18th century, since the original one was demolished. You can visit its Museo de Arte Sacra which contains the original alter raised over the relics of St James.

Praza das Praterías

One as a great view over Clock tower of the Cathedral and the cathedral door Puerta de Platerías. In front of the steps to the Cathedral, you find the beautiful Fonte dos Cabalos. The female figure on top holds the star of Compostela.

Opposite the cathedral you see the ornamental facade of the Casa do Cabido, built in the 18th century, now an exhibition hall.

Other monuments and museums

Convento de San Francisco

It’s a Franciscan monastery, which was founded in the early 13th century when St. Francis of Assisi visited Santiago de Compostela. The place is called Val de Dios and was purchased from the monks of San Mariño for the symbolic annual rent of a basket of trout.

There is not much left of the original building than give Gothic arches in the cloister, and Cotolay’s tomb (a coal man who was commissioned to built it by St. Francis and was only able to do so thanks to the miraculous discovery of a treasure according to legend).

The Baroque style church you see today was built in the 18th century. In front of the monument is a large stone cross. It’s has a beautiful, sober but monumental interior. Do check it out! You can read more about it here.

Pazo de Fonseca

Presently housing the General University Library, it started as a school in the 16th century and later housed the University of Compostela. It has a Renaissance facade and beautiful cloister.

Opposite the building is the lovely small Praza de Fonseca with a garden and fountain. It’s surrounded by restaurants and cafes and the perfect place to relax for a bit. From this point onward down two parallel lanes you find most of the restaurants and tapas bars (Rua do Franco and Rua da Raiña).

Mercado de Abastos de Santiago

This is a personal must visit, especially for all foodies. Two huge market halls with uncountable stalls with seafood, meat & sausages, cheeses, vegetables, fresh breads which are fresh from the farms and nearby sea. You also find some of the famous Galician liquors here, which are again a personal favourite of mine. I fully fell in love with their creme liquors, sausages and cheeses. That alone is a reason for me to visit Santiago again one day 🙂

Museo do Pobo Galego

For those who are interested in Galician’s culture, the Museum of the Galician People is the best place to go. It’s situated a bit outside of the historical city in the former Convento de Santo Domingo de Bonaval, built in the 13th century and like the others rebuilt in Baroque style in the 17th and 18th century. You find a beautiful Baroque spiral stairway there as well which is worth a shot!

There are many more museums, exhibition halls and also art galleries, if you want to explore more.

Panoramic views

Santiago is surrounded by hills from which you obviously have awesome views over the city.

Parque Alameda

You find the most popular and famous viewpoint Paseo da Ferradura at the Santa Susana hill with a beautiful frontal view of the Cathedral towering over the other historical buildings. It’s literally the postcard view of Santiago which you shouldn’t miss! Try to come at night as well to get a shot of the beautifully lit Cathedral.
At this view point, you can find one of the park’s massive Eucalyptus trees as well.

It’s quite a big park with a lot of other things to see, so definitely take a stroll there. You find a map here. Very beautiful is front view of the Staircase to the University Campus.

Monte Pedroso

Around one hour walking distance from Santiago, Monte Pedroso rears up northwest of the historic city of Santiago, visible even from Praza do Obradoiro. You can get a beautiful panoramic shot over the whole city from there. Especially for those who didn’t do the Camino but want to explore the city, it would be a good chance for a short hike outdoors. It’s supposed to be even more beautiful during the sunset!

Festivals

With the importance of Santiago de Compostela for Galicia, festivals are celebrated on a large scale. Here some of them.

Día de Santiago (Feast of St James)

The biggest festival is clearly 25th July, the day where the Apostle St James is celebrated. The celebrations start already 10 days earlier with concerts, theater performances and street theater, exhibitions, regional dances and bagpipes. You will find concerts and open-air celebrations everywhere. On the 24th at night there’s a spectacular multidimensional projections on the Cathedral followed by a firework on Praza do Obradoiro (the Fuegos del Apóstol). Of course the Botafumeiro is swung in the Cathedral on that day.

Samana Santa (Easter)

The holy week, which is the last week of lent, there will be Easter processions in many of the towns of Galicia. One can watch colorful processions and watch re-enactments of religious traditions. There are numerous processions both day and night in the main plazas of Santiago, performed by religious brotherhoods wearing long, pointed canonical hats (looked a bit bizarre when I saw those pictures first to be honest). You can check out the plan for the processions here.

Feito A Man

It’s an artistic festival all throughout August in the streets of Santiago de Compostela, where one can find daily performances of all kind. Check out the programme here.